Library Wednesday May 27, 2009 We were invited inside for some breakfast, the old lady and Daniela talked for about an hour and a half! We finally left and rode on towards Hajnowka. As we neared the town grey clouds appeared and as we reached the outskirts it started to tip it down.

We stopped to put on more clothes, as it suddenly became cold. My saddle tore further and I taped it up. We stopped at a supermarket then hid in the library, waiting out the storm. We used the internet, and were surprised to be brought over do-nuts and tea. The time came for the library to close, it was still raining. Te library then took pity on us and offered to let us camp in her Garden.

She gave us directions, as she would drive home. As we left the building we met a scruffy looking man with a bicycle, who offered to show us the way. He seemed to speak several languages and was well educated, which was surprising as he looked like a hobo. As we moved on his drunk friend joined us, then grabbed onto my handlebars when I stopped, I think he wanted money, I just repeated anglais, no understand. Daniela and the first man had cycled off, I pointed to say I need to leave, but he wouldn't let me go. eventually I was rescued by a car driver who stopped to help. I made my break away.

We reached the librarians house wet and cold. She offered us a bed inside, she was so kind. She made us a great dinner, and as it was a special occasion brought out a bottle of local vodka. She also showed us a book of the towns history she had written. It was a great evening, we watched a video of her daughters wedding, which involved a several Polish traditions, including dances, drinking games and an additional fake wedding.

We went to bed, full, happy and after a good shower.

We woke early, and were invited for breakfast with an old couple living next door. They showed us the cards from their 50th wedding anniversery last year. Then we filled our water bottles from their well. Later I tried to use the well, doing as the old lady had done, but I just let the bucket drop at great speed into the water far below. It was surprisingly hard to crank it back up to the surface, the old lady had made it look easy!

We cycled on, stopping at Monki to use the internet. We reached the town of Bialystok around half five. We were searching for the tourist information centre to ask about cycle routes, as the polish roads had been very busy. We tried to ask some policemen for directions, but as we did they decided to issue someone a parking ticket.

Recently I have been taking more and more opportunities to meet new people, asking strangers for directions, water and permission to camp has lead to many great experiences and new friendships. As Delboy says "he who dares wins", taking a chance and knocking on a door often pays off. However our next encounter with friendly people was pure luck.

As we stood, being ignored by the policemen, 2 friendly men approached us and asked if they could help. This ultimately lead to us being shown around the city, which was originally a palace and garden, and being shown to the road out of town. we were invited to join them for food at a bar, but this sounded a little extravagent. It emerged that the two men were part of the local green party and were campaigning for better cycle routes in the city. I wish them well.

We cycled out of town, then asked to camp at a farm as the sun was getting low. We were then invited in for tea and snadwiches. An old couple lived there, they had been married for 54 years. They had 8 children, and many grandchildren. Many of the children seemed to live in adjacent houses on the farm. They grew crops and and reared horses. I hoped i would be able to ride one, as they showed us the stables. then it emerged that the horses were reared to be sold to Italy to be eaten. One horse was a massive 840 kg!

We had a good time chatting to them and then fell asleep exhausted.

Monday May 25, 2009

The kind family made us breakfast. We collected our clean clothes, then said our goodbyes. They were extra-ordinarily generous and kind. We cycled on into Augustow and bought a map from tourist information. They advised to stop using the main road and take a longer route using smaller roads. We followed thier advice. We stopped at a small town the use the internet in the library, then stopped again to buy food, where we met an English speaking shopkeeper.

We cycled on into the evening, entering a national park. The region was forested, so we continued hoping to find a field. As the sun set we found a clearing, with a camp site. I looked at the details, it was only about 1 euro to camp, and I thought it was worth the money, as it was late and there were no nearby fields, only forests. Daniela didn't want to waste a euro, as even though it is only a small sum, there was still some hope of finding a field and camping for free. There was a pub by the camp site, and some locals spoke to us. They were friendly, but I couldn't face another night on the beers. We cycled on.

We spotted a railway station, behind which were some houses and a field, in a clearing. It looked deserted, and we would have to cross live railway lines to get there. I suggested to Daniela that we head back 1 km to the camp site. Daniela crossed the lines and found someone willing to let us camp in their garden. Then I crossed the lines to join her. It took both of us to lift my bike up over the small way by the railway tracks.

I feel as though I may be becoming a charity case, asking to camp in fields when so close to a proper camp site. I don't want to take advantage of peoples good nature, but on the other hand want to meet new people and share experiences. I think its a fine line, especially as I am beginning to look like a hobo too.

We began to put up the tent, then some locals came by and touched their neck with the fingers, a sign for drinking. We followed them over to a garden bench, where we were given food and several rounds of vodka. I was a little left out of the conversation as my polish is non existant. In a break in the conversation I managed to come up with Polska Wodka dobry, which was probably incorrect, but well recieved all the less. Aparenty I was the first English person to stay in the village!

It was dark by the time we returned to put the tent up, the people we had eat with brought out a torch and helped me put up the tent. Daniela was struggling to walk in a straight line and everyone found putting the tent up very amusing after the vodka.

I woke in the middle of the night as a train passed feet from where we were camped, I recalled our decision not to camp in the camp site and thought for a second that we had done something stupid and put up the tent by the tracks, then I remembered we were in someones garden and went back to sleep.

Poland

Sunday May 24, 2009

We were woken by one of the builders very early. I was hung over. the builder made us coffee and gave us bread, meat and noodles. They were very kind. We left and headed for Poland.

I hadn't got much sleep, as the builders had left a radio on blaring out music all night and I felt pretty terrible. Daniela could sleep through a rock concert. We made it to Poland, but I was exhausted, I suggested we stop in a pub for a break, I had a slight alterior motive to also watch the Monaco GP, but the only pubs were truck stops, as were on a busy highway. So we carried on.

Daniela had another puncture, so I replaced the inner tube. We reached the town of Suwalki, but the tourist information office had closed. We had no map, so just carried on down the main highway. I wanted to stop early, as I felt terrible. We asked at a farm, the lady was nice and filled our water bottles, but suggested we try her friends farm, as her fields were full of cow poo.

We asked at the friends house up the road, they were having a party. They said it was OK to camp. Then the son came over and gave us a beer each and said we could sleep in their shed. We cleared out some stuff and moved into the shed. Then the mother came over and insisted we stay inside the house. We ended up joining the party. Daniela was close to home now and her Czech doubled as Polish. I tried to speak some German to one son, then was able to speak english to the other.

They were exceptionally generous with the beer and food, and we also had a shower. Then they offered to wash our smelly clothes (people open windows when I come inside). They were so kind, it was great. My highlight was drinking some milk straight from their cows. they were a wonderful family and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

 

I love Lithuania

Saturday May 23, 2009

We rose early, planning to put in a big day. I have now given up trying to track our km progress, as I have no bike computer and we are on the small roads. This is how I intended the trip to be, no watch, no km counting, just riding. In Scandinavia this was not possible, every day we spent there was one too many, it was prohibatively expensive to soak in the scenery, as even a loaf of bread would set me back around 2 - 3.50 pounds.

We plodded on to Kazlu Ruda, a small town. We bought some food, then it began to rain. We looked for the library, but couldn't find it, we were a little miserable, well until we asked an old lady for directions and she beckoned us inside for lunch - result! I eat a vegetable omlet, a real treat, and potatoes, cake, coffee and some speciality Lithuanian milk product. This was all delicious apart from the gone off milk which I passed over to Daniela.

The lady was 77, she said that before the war she used to speak English and German. She could still remeber some German and she was keen to talk to us, to practice her languages. My German is pretty bad, so Daniela did most of the speaking. The lady was a retired artist and she showed us some of her work. We spoke about Lithuania in general, and it seems that many of the young people have left the country to work in other EU countries, leaving all the grandparents alone in Lithuania.

She then took us to the library, and we said our thankyou's and goodbyes. We pedalled on to Antanavas against a headwind, where I asked directions again. We continued only to find we had been sent the wrong way, I didn't want to go all the way back, nor take our chances on the fast road, so we attempted to travel cross country. We crossed a dam, then trudged along a footpath and over a field, before reaching a track, which would eventually take us back onto course.

At around 7 we decided to stop, before the town of Marijampole. We asked a lady gardening, she said she didn't own the field, but maybe we could camp inside of a fenced in building site. We passed this up, and asked at a farm house, but no one spoke English. As we again passed the lady gardening her husband insisted we camp at the building site. We spoke briefly, then as he went to leave asked where we were from, I said England, and that Daniela was from Czech. At this he came back to chat some more, this time in Czech. It emerged he imported rare bired and animals from Czech into Lithuania and the building site would house the birds.

He showed us tens of pictures of rare animals and told us of the profit margin on each. I think he loved the thrill of the transactions and making a profit at least as much as he loved the animals. He was definately passionate about his business, and I admired his courage to build such a grand project. It emerged that his day job was as a dnetal technician, and importing animals was only his hobby!

He was a very kind man and drove off, retutrning with a beer each for myself and Daniela. We moved inside of the building, where he said we could sleep. There were 2 builders inside, getting drunk on 9.5% beer and strong wine. I tried some of their beer, it was not great, but I guess it did the job. The man and his wife chatted for a long time, before returning to their home in the town. I opened up another beer I had bought yesterday and shared it with the builders.

The builders then preseneted a bucket of hot water and soap, which we could use to wash. wow!! After not showering for 9 days this sounded good, but Daniela used it all as I drank beer with the builders.

I woke in the night needig the toilet, I went downstairs, I tried to get outside but the doors were locked, and the builders were asleep. I had drunk quite a lot of beer and coffee and there was no way I would be able to wait till the morning. I ended up peeing out of the upstairs window.  

 

A history lesson

Friday May 22, 2009

We set the alarm for 7 am, but lied in until 9, waiting for the morning rain to end. As we began to pack up we were invited insdie the house for coffee. Three generations of women were sitting round the table, I guess the men had gone off to work/ school.

We navigated our way through Kedainai and out onto a small road with the help of the tourist information lady, no one else seemed to know how to find the road we wanted.

We stopped for food and to use the internet at Babtai, a small town. The lady in the library was very interested to speak to us as few tourists visit the town. She invited us back to her house to meet her children who spoke English. A birthday party was taking place and we chatted with a guest. he was from Vilnius, studying at the top school. He spoke excellent English and filled me in on Lithuania's culture and history. Lithuania was once the largest country in Europe, and was the last country to give up Paganism.

I had a mid day beer with him, as he helped us to plan a route to Poland. I said that I didn't want to accidentally end up in Ukraine, he replied that it was unlikely as Lithuania doesn't border Ukraine. I really need a map of Europe.

We left the party and cycled on into Kaunas, a city where a large festival was taking place, to celebrate the town. I asked a policeman for directions, again for a small road out of town. He pointed us back where we had come from. I decided to use the town map I had got from the tourist information in Kedainai, aligning it with the map of the country by the river flowing through the town.

Amazingly I managed to find the correct road, this was confirmed by a local who told me that I must take a right turn further down the road. Approaching the turning I asked another local, who said to turn right after 3 traffic lights. We reached the third set of lights, there was a road, but no sign post, so I asked another person, it was the right way.

By the time we were out of Kaunas it was gone 9 pm, we made camp, exhausted, at the first field we found.

More Lithuanian hospitality

Thursday May 21, 2009

Our kind host, whose name I drunkenly forgot, woke us at 7 a.m. for coffee. I was a little hung over, and surprised our host was up so early. I was again surprised to find our host had cooked us breakfast, fried potatoes and fish. We said goodbye to his friend, our generous host had disappeared as we packed up. We rode towards Panevezys, Daniela almost jumped off her bike when she saw a snake at the side of the road, if I had seen it I imagine I would have reacted in the same way.

We stopped to buy food and use the internet in town, then struggled to find our way out of Panevezys, it was 4 pm before we were out of town. We cycled on covering around 100 km before seeking permission to camp at a familys farm house. They seemed to be an idilyic family, with many children. They let us camp on their lawn, and even brought us out coffee.

Summer is here

Wednesday May 20, 2009

We set the alarm for 7 am, and began cycling early. We blasted through the town of Kegums, following the ruote advised by tourist information. After this the route took a turn down a smaller un-named road. I took a guess and decided to try pedalling down a unsignposted gravel track. Cars were using it, so I assumed it would not be a dead end. We reached a cross roads, which I hoped would be with the P 88, however it was with another gravel road, surely it could not be the P 88. We followed the only signpost towards a village marked on my map. In all we cycled 50 km's on the gavel, before making it back onto tarmac. In retrospect I assume that the P 88 was a gravel road.

The sun was out and it was getting quiote warm. we stopped at a school for water, we were directed to a wash basin tap. The water smelt disgusting. As we left a group of kids gathered around us, I spoke withthe a little. Daniela tried the water, then swore in front of the kids.

We entered Lithuania, country number 5. We had to cycle another 20 km to reach a town where we could use an ATM and get a map. By the time we arrived teh tourist informatin was closed, but the cleaners let us in and gave us a pretty good cycling map.

We headed on towards the next town, where we bought food. Then we looked for somewhere to camp. We spotted some houses behind a field. We heard people talking in a back garden and pushed our bike round to ask if we could camp. There were 2 drunk men, they understood almost no english, and interrogated us in Lithuanian, then Russian. We had no idea what was going on, luckily there was a family in the garden next door, so we felt a little reassured.

Eventually one of the men invited us into his house. It was quite basic, and not overly clean. He was ery generous, making us eggs and soup and giving us coffee. He only spoke a few english words, drinking beer, my brother in london, yes, no, water, coffee, good and bad. But we managed to string out the evening chatting to him. Daniela went to bed early, I thought it would have been rude to have left him drinking alone, so I joined him. There was a picture of an elderly woman on the beer bottle, which when turned upside down transformed into a picture of a yound lady. He held it upright and said bad, the turned it upside down and said good. this went on for a while as we drank.

He showed me his medals, they had a picture of a dog on, and were from the CCCP era. I guess he had a prize winning dog. He also showed me 2 pictures which he painted himself, they were very good. I asked for the toiled, and he directed me outside, it was a wooded bench with a hole in and a compost heap underneath, very organic.

I went to bed, full of food and beer. What a generous man.

 

Sleeping in a shed

We rose late after waiting out some morning rain. We packed slowly, checking for cockroaches then headed off. We stopped in Straupe at a centre containing a post office, shop and library. I asked the lady in the post office if I could use the toilet, she only understood th word toilet after I repeated it, then she handed me the key. I was horrified to find that I had blocked the toilet. I did my best to clear the blockage flushing again, but the water level in the bowl rose, and water started to seap out of the down tube.

I considered my options. I decided not to tell the post office lady, as she spoke no english and I would have needed to have shown her the problem. I figured someone would report it later, and a cake taker could deal with it. So I quietly left the scene of the crime, avoiding embarrasing myself and the post office lady, and made haste on my get away vehicle.

Due to our late start we made very few km's. Daniela wanted to stop early at 6,45, at Malpils, a town with a lake. We pushed our bikes along a lakeside path untill we found some people tending their allotment. I I sought permission to camp on their ground. They were very obliging and offered for us to sleep in their shed. Their dog lived on the allotment on a chain, they said she would look after us.

We bathed in the lake, then the man returned with his daughters. He offered us food and home made whisky. We eat bread, cheese and turkey and had a couple of shots with our kind host.

These people were clearly very resourceful, growing their own food and making their own alcohol. It was a beautiful allotment, very precisely laid out and neatly tended to. Outside the shed was a verandah with car seats rested on tyres for chairs, we sat overlooking the lake. It was a beautiful evening, which I enjoyed in the mellow daze of very strong home made whisky.

Roaches

Monday May 18, 2009

We rose late and packed up slowly, enjoying the beautiful surrounds. we pedalled on into Latvia and changed money in Ainazi. Wealso gt a new map and the people inside the tourist information place helped me to plan a route using quiet roads. I was a little surprised that the coastal cycle route had come to an abrupt stop upon entering Latvia, but there were plenty of quiet roads to ride inland. we cycled on into the countryside, stopping occassionaly to ask friendly people to fill our water bottles as we passed their houses.

the route was zig zagging and progress was slow, we managed about 80 km, and maybe 35 of those were in a southward direction. hay ho. As we began to think about setting up camp I stopped at a house to ask for water, the people were really friendly, at least 3 generations were all sitting in the back garden chilling out. We pedalled a little further before asking if we could pitch our tent in a field. A kind lady and her small children were in the garden, the kids were very excited by the arrival of foreign speaking cyclists. As often happens the lady went inside to fetch her teenage daughter to translate. the daughter spoke good english and was very business like, smiling and asking " so how may I help you?". We camped in their back garden, with their cows.

I would describe their residence as a homestead, alongside cows they had chickens and a greenhouse. there were at least 4 kids. they didn't have a car and appeared poor, yet I imagine their lifestyle of self sufficiency must be highly rewarding and is the way I am sure many richer people would like to live, given the chance.

we set up the tent and eat. i noticed a cockroach in the outer of the tent. i killed it, im not proud of killing creatures, but I would probably do it again. Later i went to pee, as night fell there were hundreds of the blasted things (theses could fly too - im not sure if cockroaches can fly?). They were flying into my body, face, all over. I jumped back into the tent, and shut the door quick. Unfortinately we had an unwelcome third party in the tent, which suffered the same fate as the previous roach.

i didn't sleep well, it rained and it was too hot, and there were hundreds of roaches buzzing around outside. i hoped they couldn't eat through the tent. they didn't. I think this was good preparation for the road ahead, I am sure I will encounter more creepy crawlies!

Cows

Sunday May 17, 2009

We were awoken early as someone called at us, as they let cows into the field. I think they wanted us to move. Unfortinately I was naked in my sleeping bag (I don't wear underwear when cycling, and am gradually phasing it out alltogether) and couldn't pop out to greet them. Daniela went outside to appease the woman.

We packed up quickly and left, relieved to be away from the cows, one of which was taking a keen interest in our bikes. We cycled into Turi, the spring capital of Estonia. A flower festival was in town, we entered as the traders were setting up their stalls, and eat breakfast (bread and salami) on the grass.

All manner of goods from flowers, to arts and crafts, to clothing and lawnmowers were being displayed for sale. I purchased a second breakfast for 40 krones, a sausage, potato and vegetables, served with gerkins and bread.

we left the supermarket, bought supplies in the supermarket and rode on towards Parnu, the summer capital of estonia. we followed the cycle route signs, which took us off the main road, before deserting us for a 35 km stretch, including several junctions. we asked an old lady on a bike for directions. She said to turn around and follow the main road, which was the shortest route. i put my neck on the line and suggested that we ignore her advice, we cycled on and asked a man, who told us of a gravel road.

I knew there was a parallel road, having keenly studied the cycling specific map, which i could not afford to buy. we reached a village, with a road to the right. I enquired at a shop. the lady inside welcomed us and we spoke for some time. then she offered us a coffee, i got the impression they didn't get to speak to many tourists around here. i showed her my pictures of norway, and asked if i could take a photo of her, then my batteries died, so to bad!

We headed off down the gravel road, I felt great, having a proper breakfast had given me so much energy. My bike felt like a stripped down racing bike, as I tore along the gravel road, weaving from side to side to find the smoothest path.

daniela was slow, I slowed too for a while, but found it wasier to travel over the gravel with momentum. So I tore on ahead like a bat out of hell, skimming accross the loose surface of the dusty gravel road. I passed a lady in her garden, she smiled and waved, I waved back. I felt so alive. I raced on and at a village I overtook some locals on bikes, I was lance Armstrong winning the Tour de france.

Occasionally I stopped to eat some food, feeding my supercharged engine and waiting for Daniela to catch up. eventually the gravel came to an end and we saw another cycle path marker. I was so glad we hadn''t turned around and taken the main road!

we stopped for lunch at a bus stop. the we re-supplied at a Parnu supermarket, before heading down the coast road to Latvia. We cycled on till around 7.30, when we decided to look for somewhere to stop. i spied some motorhomes and asked their German owners if it was OK to camp. It was, the site was owned by the village, a communal area to camp and picnic.

We pitched out tent and for the first time light a fire, in the ashes of a past one. the Germaanš gave us hot water and tea bags. they were very kind. We boiled more water on the fire and drank lots of tea. I still had a beer left over from my Estonian birthday in Tallin, which I enjoyed whilst admiring the sunset over the beach and sea.

I would like to thank the community minded estonian village for providing such excellent facilities, including a toilet and water, for all to enjoy, in such a beautiful beach side spot. thanks.

Seeing as I have been on the road for a month, I have completed a systems check.

Brakes - rear are good, replacved in Tallin, front are worn but OK.

Seat - torn, as a result of leaning bike against trees with rough bark. Now the padding is beginning to fall out of the tears. I am considering making a duct tape repair.

Panniers - considerable damage sustained, largely in the great pot hole incident of last week. I was following Daniela a little too closely, and at speed. I failed to see the crater until it was too late. It was like the big dipper, first I went down, then I was thrown up the other side. My handle bar bag was thrown clear of the bike, and my left rear pannoier fell off to one side.

I manages to stay on the bike, but before I knew it the handle bar bag had skidded to a stop in front of me. I slammed on the brakes a little too late as my front wheel came to a rest on top of the bag. the plastic structure split, but the locking mechanism was unscathed. the left rear pannier is now down to only 1 of the 3 original working connectors. the first was knocked off when Daniela rear ended me. The second remains on, by threads, but is no longer screwed into the pannier. The crater was in Finland, and since I have used bungee cords to hold the left rear pannier in place.

Pannier rack - broke in finland, replace is still hanging on.

Wheels - fine so far

Petrol stove - Brilliant. It has proved to be a reliable tool. the fuel bottle however let me down when teh screw top lid broke early on, this was my second lid, the original also broke when i tested it in the UK.

As for me - I have lost quite a bit of weight, but am getting fitter. My major ailment is a case of saddle sores, which i fear may persist for teh duration of this trip.

Locked in the library!

Saturday May 16, 2009

We rose late and cycled into Rapsa, Daniela bought new inner tubes. i used the internet in the library. Then we had a problem, Danielaš new lock was jammed shut, and her bike was now a permenant feature of the librarys exterior. eventually we freed the bike with the help of a local and his wire cutter, and we changed the inner tube again.

we cycled on towards Turi and camped in a field just short.

 

Hang overs and punctures

Friday May 15, 2009

 I woke up, Daniela was not in her bunk. I was hung over and went back to sleep. I woke later, Daniela had returned from the supermarket. I eat 4 packets of noodles, watched some TV, then eventually walked to the shops. we were meant to leave by 2 pm, and were just about ready by 1.30. Then Daniela decided to adjust her rear wheel, which was mis aligned. This took about an hour, we finally set off, but Daniela had managed to make the wheel worse.

We looked for a bike shop, but found none so headed towards Rapla, which is due South. Then we saw a cycle route to Rapla, bonus! Again we had a poor tourist info map, so were glad to follow a proper route. We found a bike shop. I bought new brake pads for 109 Estonian krone. The mechanic replaced the bearings in Daniela's wheel, trued up the wheel, adjusted her brakes and tightened her bottom bracket all for 105 krone including parts. I guess labour is very cheap, or they were being kind towards us. It was interesting to watch the mechanic in action, he was super fast and seemed to prefer to try to mend rather than replace.

We rode on, but the bike path signs fizzled out, so I used road signs. Daniela had a puncture. Her only remaining inner tube was duff, so we replaced it with an old tube with a slow puncture. I tried to get Daniela to learn, asking her to do the work, but after an hour I ended up doing it for her. By now it was around 8 pm, and we had only done about 10 km. We cyced on a bit and camped in someones field.

My Estonian birthday

Thursday May 14, 2009

We left Marko's apartment late, and Marko showed us to the ferry terminal, for fear of us getting lost again! We said goodbye then bought out tickets. Both Daniela and myself would have liked to have gone through Russia, but I was just hoping I culd get a quick visa in Helsinki and that did not look on the cards.

I was unsure about Estonia, so decided I must kept my guard up initially. The ferrywas super fast, and before we knew it we were cycling into the city centre. My first impression was that there were a lot of beautiful women, which I had not expected. We asked for difrections to the rtourist information place, and I was also pleasantly surprised by the amazing standard ofEnglish that the young people spoke, and that they were so eager to help us.

we passed an english bar and I sugested to Daniela that we go for a beer later to properly celebrate my birthday (a week ago I was 25, but could not afford beer in Finland). Daniela thought this was a good idea and suggested we stay in a hostel in town. We were the only two people in the hostel, we bought some beer in the supermarket. I felt drunk after the first, I guess all this healthy cycling is affecting me. Anyway I countinued to have quite a few more, before stumbling down the road to an Irish bar.

Daniela wanted to go to a kareoke bar, but nobody knew of one. It was a quiet Thursday night, we moved on. As we walked by some smokers asked us to join them, we were the only people in yet another Irish bar (in fact it was of the same chain). All I have to show from my Estonian birthday is a piece of paper with some basic Estonian phrases.

The wrong city

Wednesday May 13, 2009

We rose late and cycled towards Helsinki, we reached another cross roads and asked another local for directions. Then as we neared the city we asked for directions to the main train station, where we would meet Marko, who had very kindly offered us accomodation in his apartment. Unfortinately our run of good luck with directions had ended, as when I rang Marko it emerged I wasn't actually at the main ytrain station. I figured as much as it didn't look very grand. Then the penny dropped, I asked a local what city we were in, ad the answer was not Helsini, I think it was Vanta. I rang Marko again, he advised us to follow the train tracks, which connect the two cities.

We met Marko who made us dinner, Later he took some photos of us in his own home made studio. We discussed cycling, and his forthcoming trip to the Nordkapp. He also had some very detailed and ambitous plans of his own, which make building my own boat seem easy. Good luck Marko, and I hope to hear from you when your project is up and running.

Chocolate Eggs

Tuesday May 12, 2009

We spent the shole day asking for directions. At a supermarket car park a man approached me and asked if I was English, then he told me about his recent hoiday in Folstone. How did he know I was English? We asked for moe directions from a contruction worker, who helpfully showed us the map on his clipboard and pointed us the right way. We went down some real country roads and just hoped we were still going the right way, we were and eventually found a signpost to confirm it. We stopped about 40 km's out of Helsinki, where we made camp in some very kind peoples garden. They said that they had found my web site, so I would like to say hello and thank you very much for the chocolate eggs, if you read this! It was amazing to be given chcocolate and really boosted our morale.

First taste of country roads

Monday May 11, 2009

We lied in before moving on to the library, we surfed the net waiting for a thunderstorm to pass. Eventually we decided wee must set off, and as we did the rain stopped. We set off towards Helsink, trying to avoid the fast road, yet go in the right direction, which proved difficult as our map was really only good for the main roads. We asked an old lady for directions, I had low expectations, but here English was immaculate, she said our map was very poor, and pointed us in the right direction.

We camped in some kind mans garden, he even let us use the toilet in his garage. He had built his house himself, it was very impressive. At some point during my time in finland I had decided I would build my own boat one day, then sail around the World.

Tampere

Sunday May 10, 2009

We set the alarm for 6,45 and set off quickly. I had decided to wear my wet clothes and soaking socks again, as I feared more rain would leave we with bags ful of wet clothes.

It turned out to be a dry, but windy day, at lunchtime I changed my socks and dried the wet ones on the back of the bike. We battled the wind all day, unlike climbing a mountain pass, their is no victorious peak, it was just a long slow grind. Around 8 pm we reached Tampere, exhausted. Tuire was awesome, meeting us at the train station and preparing dinner for us. we had a great evening and I enjoyed my first taste of beer in a long time. I think we must have covered about 125 km.

Rain

 

Saturday May 9, 2009

My intention was to meet up with a friend in Tampere, but they were out of town on Monday, so I knew I had to pedale frantically today and tomorrow. We set off early and pedalled hard. Unfortinatly it rained for most of the day and progress was slow. I was shocked to find that it was 150 km from Jvaskula to Tampere, from looking at the map I had guessed it would be around 120!

We cycled on until 8 pm, when we took a cycle path leading to a dead end, at which point we'd had enough and asked in a house if we could up our tent up anywhere, they kindly let us sleep in their garden, aś the rain continued into the evening.

Thoughts of Africa

Friday May 8, 2009

It rained in the morning so we lied in for a while. In the evening we visited a petrol station where a lady kindly filled our water bottles, I asked her about the trophies relating to rally car driving, and she spoke a little but then began to cry and left, I felt bad as perhaps I had touched on a bad subject, or maybe it was just the look of my white legs? Then I met a kind man called Ulf, from Malawi, and we spoke about Africa for a while, we exchanged contact details and I hope to keep in touch. I thought about Africa for a while, which had seemed until that point to be so far away, my only focus had been getting to Helsinki, it was good to remind myself where I was ultimatly going.

We cycled on and camped in some kind persons garden.

My Birthday!

Thursday May 7, 2009

The sun was shining, so after a short lie in we hit the road. I initially wore shorts before reverting to trousers as it was still a little chilly. We covered around 120 km before camping in some kind peoples garden. Daniela has been wearing soft soled trainers for some time now and can no longer move her toes and is hobbling around on her heels, I guess for her the end is in sight and she doesn't want to get new shoes. I still have my heavy walking boots, which I am considering changing.


Wednesday May 6, 2009

Daniela and I started the day arguing, but called a truce and cycled the 50 km into Oulu, remembering the tip Hannu had given us and avoiding the fast road. We settled into the library and hid from the rain. When we emerged we asked several people for directions to leave town, as our map was not sufficiently detailed. We made camp at 9.45 in some kind peoples garden. We made around 80 km.

I recieved a text from my friend telling me not to count the days but to make the days count. Recently our cycling has been quite target driven as we attempted to race through Scandinavia. However this non stop pedalling approach has been sucking the fun and adventure out of the trip, and knackering our bodies, so I think its time to slow down a little.

I also considered an e-mail from my brother, regarding the kindness of complete strangers. Perhaps I could use some "off time" from cycling to help others in some way, to pass on the good will.

Semi rest day

Tuesday May 5, 2009

eira left for work at 6,30, but not before preparing breakfast for us. She told us to eat it at our wn pace then see ourselves out. She was so kind a trusting, a truly wonderful person.

the weather forecast was for 2 days of rain before clearing up. we decided to have a semi rest day, cycling to kemi and sitting in the library to hide from the rain. I had a bad stomach and struggled as we cycled on towards Oulu, we intended to camp early, but found no where suitable as the land was so heavily forested. After hours of looking for some flat, unforested ground we spotted a field. I knocked on the door of what I thought was a farm house, and they said we could camp, then they mentioned that it was in fact an old peoples home. I was just happy to stop, as we put the tent up in semi-darkness. I think we must have covered about 70 km.