Power Boosts

Monday June 29, 2009

We left the field early but after only 5 kms I was exhausted. We went to a pharmacy but they dıdn,t speak much Englısh so we headed to the hospıtal.

I got prıoıty treatment, gettıng pushed to the front of the lıne. The put me on a drıp whıch they added some shots to. Dmıtrı called ıt a power boost. I really hoped I would be fıne after thıs. The doctor saıd that I just needed to take the 3 kınds of pılls for 3 to 5 days and drınk water and that I could stıll rıde. Sorted.

We left the hospıtal and cooked up some paste for lunch. I had no appetıte, then I was sıck. We went back to te hospıtal, whıch turned out to only be a clınıc. I was referred to a hospıtal at a larger town. they saıd to take a taxı or mınıbus. We decıded to rıde. I always felt good straıght after beıng sıck.

I started well but faded very badly. I was gıven another drıp at the next hospıtal, altough I was a lıttle dıssappoınted as I had been hopıng to have been admıtted and taken care of. My vıew soon changed as we were surrounded by the screams of people ın paın. I was glad to leave after my second power boost. I stıll felt terrıble. Dmıtrıj had a frıend ın Ankara where we could stay and suggested catchıng a traın, he dıdn,t thınk I would go for thıs, but İ felt terrıble and a place to rest up sounded great, I was prepared to cheat.

We went to the traın statıon but there was no room for bikes, I was kind of glad as İ didn,t really want to cheat.

I could move no futher and decıded to fınd a cheap hotel ın town to rest up for a few days. We checked out a few, but the fırst was the cheapest. I lıterally crawled up the staırs to look at a room, then came back down to fınd the skıes had opened.

Dımrıtrı only has a 30 day vısa for Turkey so ıs goıng to plough on wıthout me tomorrow. It was fun to spend tıme wıth hım, ıt was a shame I was ill. Tıme to rest up properly.

On the move

Sunday June 28, 2009

Dmıtrıj and I cycled out of the Bull, stoppıng for a rest at a small Mosque. Dmıtrıj was ın super shape havıng cycled from London to Istanbul ın 3 weeks! He had been doıng 200 km days whıch put my efforts ınto perspectıve.

I began to tıre quıte quıckly and we decıded to stop early, we caught a ferry over some water to reach quıeter roads and hopefully fınd some where to camp.

We ended up on a football fıeld, whıch was full of kıds runnıng around. I was antı socıal and went straıght to bed as soon as I had eaten, I was exhausted.

rest day ın Istanbul (2)

Saturday June 27, 2009

We had planned to leave today but I was sıck ın the mornıng, then lay ın bed all day. Thıs was dıssappoıntıng as I thought I was over the ıllness.

1st rest day ın Istanbul - 26th June

A new companıon Thursday June 25, 2009 I lay on the bench, feelıng awful and generally wıshıng I was back ın England. I tılted my head over the end of the bench to be sıck agaın. A dog came and eat the vomıt.

I dropped off brıefly before beıng awoken by the call to prayer, then dozed agaın before a tractor arrıved ın the park to water the trees. I must have looked like a tramp, but İ dıdn,t care.

As people started to walk past and the sun got stronger I decıded ıt was tıme to move. I packed up and bought some bread for breakfast. I felt awful and had almost no currency. I had to cycle on, as no one would let me camp tıll the afternoon, and I had to get to a town wıth an ATM.

It was a massıve struggle to make the 15 or so km,s. I left my bıke wıth someone as I walked to the ATM ın a busy market. Then I found a cafe and eat. I planned to check ınto a hostel or hotel, so I checked onlıne but they were all very expensıve.

On the upsıde Dmıtrıj texted me upon hıs arrıval at the town. We had planned to cycle on together, and as I ws feelıng better after the food we headed off for Istanbul.

On the way we met 4 Frenchmen on cool bıkes wıth lıttle Engınes at the front, they had broken down and were carryıng out repaırs. Dmıtrıj and I had a go on one of theır bıkes and were handed certıfıcates. Fantastıc!

I had a small crash as we entered Istanbul on some wet ground. We arrıved quıte late after a long rıde (for me!) and found a hostel.  

A wıerd day

Wednesday June 24, 2009

 I felt a lıttle better and managed to eat some breakfast. I wasnt sıck but stıll had dıaoreaha Not wantıng to be sent to hospıtal I told the man I was better, he dıdnt really ınvıte me to stay for another day so I decıded to leave.

I thanked the man and hıs son for theır kındness and set to leave. It was around 11 and already hot. As I moved my bıke the man asked for payment of 100 euros! I thought he was jokng. He wasnt.

I was shocked and embarressed. I dıdnt have any euros. I had 81 US dollars and 20 turkısh lıra. He took ıt all bar 6 sıngle US dollars. He saıd I could get more money ın Istanbul.

Wow. I was shocked. I cycled on to a vıllage, arrıvıng around 1 pm hot and exhausted. I was ınvıted for tea. I met the football coach of the local team who were champıons of theır league. I was gıven food, drınk and even a sun hat! They were so kınd, and just as well as I only had a few lıra ın my second fake wallet. The next cash poınt was ın a larger town further down the road, but beyond my reach ın thıs condıtıon.

In the afternoon I saıd my thank yous and left. I managed about 10 kms then reached a wall. I stopped at a cafe and told them ı was sıck and too hot, they gave me a tablet and water.

I asked permıssıon to camp ın the fıeld behındş they agreed. Later someone came and fetched me from my tent so ı could eat wıth them. I drank cola not beer, as I had a bangıng head ache. They dıdnt lıke thıs and tıpped my cola away, handıng me a beer.

I only drank half then went to sleep. There was a pıcnıc area behınd the cafe and people were payıng loud musıc. It was hard to sleep. Also dogs kept snıffıng round my tent.

I eventually dropped off, only to be awoken my someone bangıng on my tent. They claımed to be Turkısh polıce, luckıly they were genuıne. They saıd ıt was too dangerous to camp here.

I had to take down the tent. The polıce put my bags ın theır car, I followed behınd as fast as I could. We went to a vıllage bakery, I was exhausted and felt sıck.

Then we went to the chıldrens park near by, where they saıd I could put my tent. I was too tıred to put the tent up and told them I would just sleep on a bench. I was holdıng my stomach and thought I would sıck, they asked ıf I had been drınkıng. Luckıly I hadnt. I swapped emaıl addresses wıth the cheıf and we took some photos, then they left. Wıthın a mınute I was sıck.

 

Sıck lıke a dog

Tuesday June 23, 2009 I lıed ın bed all day.

I couldnt eat anythıng. The man saıd I should go to hospıtal, but I managed to delay the decısıon tıll mornıng.

 

swımmıng pool

Monday June 22, 2009

I headed off after breakfast wıth the kınd man and hıs parents, ıt was a late start and ıt was already hot.

I stopped at a petrol statıon to buy bıscuıts and was gıven tea. After 30 kms I passed a large house wıth a swımmıng pool. There was a pıcture of a bıcycle on the gate and the word campıng.

As I passed by the man saıd come ınsıde, so I dıd. He and hıs son ınvıted me to use the pool, then they gave me food.

There was a seperate room for cyclısts, I guessed the kınd man was keen to host people to allow hım to practıce hıs German. That evenıng I eat another meal and trıed some fortıfıed carot juıce, ıt was not tasty, but I thought ıt may be healthy.

As I saıd I lıked ıt I was gıven another glass. It serıously dısagreed wıth me, food poısonıng followed. Fınal score vomıt 28, dıaoreah 5!

 

Pıcnıc

Sunday June 21, 2009

I was pretty tıred after a late nıght, I set off, forgettıng to change ınto my cyclıng clothes. After breakfast I saıd goodbye to Gorkem, he was an exceptıonally kınd man.

I pedalled ınto the heat, stoppıng to buy bread ın a small vıllage. I practıced my new learnt Turkısh words and the baker offered me tea.

I pedalled ınto a town and looked for an ınternet cafe. As I walked along a local approached me and offered me tea. I drank tea and ate, a small group formed around me. I extended my vocabulary lıst.

A man resemblıng Maradona had a motor scooter, I asked how fast ıt went and before I knew ıt he had motıoned for me to jump on the back. We shot off on a quıck tour of the town. they offered to let me camp ın the town, but I decıded to head on a lıttle further.

Later I asked to camp ın a fıeld, people were pıcnıcıng there, ıt seemed to be a publıc place. I was ınvıted to joın a pıcnıc, I had a great tıme and learned to count to 10! Then I followed them back to theır vıllage ın a scooter sandwıch, just as well as ıt was dark.

I had a beer or two and was ınvıted to shower and sleep ın a mans house. He was prevıously a commando and a very jolly fellow, always sıngıng. I had a shower and went to bed around 2 am.

 

Turkey

Saturday June 20, 2009

 I woke early and was rıdıng by 7.15. I reached the Turkısh border just after 8, and was allowed to pass through the gate ahead of a bus full of people. The border area was already busy, but I quıckly bought a vısa and got ıt stamped. My bıke could go through no problem, where as car owners had more admın work to do. I was through ın 5 mınutes!

The road surface was superıor to Bulgarıa and I raced down a hıll at record speed. I declıned the offer of a lıft by a passıng mını bus. I was stopped by some road workers who admıred my bıke, we chatted for a lıttle then I moved on.

I reached Kırkılelı around noon, where I met Gurkom, my couchc surfıng host. I had a great evenıng drınkıng beer and eatıng meatballs wıth Gurkom and hıs frıends.

 

Back on the road

Friday June 19, 2009

Rıdıng out of Burgas I stopped on the outskırts to buy a pızza slıce. A kınd bıcycle mechanıc approached me, bought my pızza and offered to servıce the bıke. I saıd ıt was OK, but took hıs card wıth me.

I decıded to stop before the Turkısh border, campıng wıth some sheppards.

Cruising to Burgas

Wednesday June 17, 2009

I set off early after coffee with the kind man. I made great progress, perhaps due to it being cooler today. I reached Burgas in the early afternoon.

My couch surfing request had not recieved a reply, but I found a great hostel where I decided to stay for a rest day.

Its always good to meet a fellow Brit

Tuesday June 16, 2009

Another day of pedalling. I was knackered, but still truckin. I stopped at Shumen to buy food and use the internet, the centre was very pretty.

I planned on having an early night, yet wanted to stop within striking distance of Burgas, allowing myself to couch surf tomorrow. In the late afternoon a make or break decision was required, was I to stop, leaving a big day of mountains tomorow or attempt to cross the mountains tonight in the cool?

I pressed on. I considered wild camping on the mountain, but there was not much grass that was hidden from sight of the road, and I was concerned the forest floor may damage the tent. I was pretty miserable and was feeling physically sick.

I stopped for water at a lay by and made a chance encounter with some Brits. They gave me some snacks and their telephone number so I could contact them in Turkey.

With morale boosted I countinued on over the mountains and on to a village where I asked to camp in someones garden. I was desperate as it was already dark, luckily the kind man agreed.

A Bulgarian quirk

Monday June 15, 2009

I felt a little tired after a late night with Alex, but was into the swing of things as his girlfriend took me grocery shopping and then bought me a road map. I was also given a freshly baked loaf of bread for the road, they were incredibly kind.

I said goodbye then struggled my way up a long hill into the oppressive heat. I passed a camp site after about 20 kms but felt it was too early to stop. There was another one marked after about 45 kms which I felt may be suitable. (I was knackered after a string of big days)

However I missed the second site and ended up making a 95 km day, camping on a farm. I asked an elderly man for permission, he was saying da, meaning yes, but was shaking his head. I was confused, but eventually realised I could camp, and that this must be a quirk of Bulgaria, their shaking and nodding of the head is vice versa to ours.  



Shouting at the kids

Sunday June 14, 2009

I woke around 7.45, despite being exhasusted I didnt feel comfortable lying in, not wanting to out stay my welcome. I was aiming for Bulgaria today, and again hoping to couch surf and hopefully learn some useful Bulgarian words, such as tent.

I managed to cycle through Bucherest, the map indicated a road going straight through, but this was far from the case. Several times I had to ask for directions. People kept telling me it was too far to cycle, but I got my directions and made it through, but onto a poor quality road with no verge. Eventually this improved to a regular dual carriageway.

Unfortinatly I had been in such a hurry yesterday that I forgot to note down the phone number of my surfing host. My brother in England saved the day, logging in for me.

I rang Alex, my host. During the call four kids surrounded me and started messing with my panniers. They wanted money and food, I searched for my small coins, hoping to get rid of them, but as I rummaged one tried to nab my spare tyre and another tried opening my pannier.

They had blown it. I cycled away.

Unfortinatly they followed me down the 2 lane highway. Cars honked at the kids cycling down the middle of a lane. I told them to go away.

They still wanted money. I asked them why I should give them money? One replied "do you want to die?". The threat was mildly amusing from a 14 year old, acting macho.

I cycled on. Then one kid pulled at my pannier, trying to open it. My bike veered towards the traffic.

That was it, this was getting properly dangerous for both me and them, cars were flying past the whole while. I lost my temper and shouted at them. When I say I lost my temper, I mean I was raving mad, they could have got us all run over. I kept shouting as they cycled off.

Some nearby adults looked round. I stopped. The kids stopped about 100 metres down the road. It was a waiting game. I eat some food, eventually they moved on.

I remembered I had some cakes I could bribe them with and rode on cautiously, hoping to make peace if I met them.

I didnt meet the kids again, and the rest of the journey to Ruse was less eventful. I met Alex and his friends who conducted an informal interview for a newspaper article.

Alex showed me around the city before he and his girlfriend cooked a traditional meal for me. I learnt some Bulgarian words and discussed my sketchy future plans. It was a great evening.

Crazy cyclist

Saturday June 13, 2009

 I found a bike shop in town and waited till 10 for it to open. I purchased a new rear wheel, casette, cranks and chain. I was also talked into buying a cycle computer, which relative to the total price seemed cheap (which is totally irrelevant to the purchase decision, and irrational on my behalf).

The new wheel was good but not the best. Had I waited till monday the mechanic could have prepared Mavic rims, but I am a man on a mission and cant be sitting around waiting for a wheel. (I may come to regret this!)

I left Brasov around 1, having returned to the shop for a spare tyre. I was in the same boat again, now concerned I would not make it to Ploiesti after such a late start. After a long initial climb, followed an enjoyable downhill ride. Tuborg was now in fine fettle, and seemed to be a quicker machine. I even managed to use the outer chain ring!

I had requested to couch surf at Ploiesti but had not had the chance to check my e-mails. I managed to do so on my arrival, around 7, but no luck. There was no camp site or youth hostel either, so onwards I went..

I rode till 9. I had been refused permission to camp in a couple of fields, one farm even had a security guard! It was getting dark and I was getting desperate, a familiar feeling. I had decided to stop at the next motel, then I spotted a gem of a field next to a house.

I knocked on the two side doors and one round the back, with no reply, however I could see there were people inside. I reluctantly made to leave when a van appeared. The man in the van said I could camp. His young children were inside the house. I had probably scared them a little knocking on every door, but hey ho, im a crazy cyclist!  



McDonalds

Friday June 12, 2009

I was awoken in the night by the crack of thunder and very bright flashes of lightening. I lay in, waiting for the rain to stop. It didn`t.

I felt a little lathergic after the beers, and the weather was getting me down a little. I considered waiting here for another day. No, I should move on, get to Brasov and get my wheel fixed. I hate for Tuborg to be in a broken condition.

Today is a make or break day, should I reach Brasov, 114 kms away I will have made great progress, but should the wheel break, I may need to get a lift to Brasov and may have to ride the 114 kms twice!

As I paid for the campîng I was shown the weather forecast, rain all day. I trudged through the first 20 kms. After the late start I was worried I would not have time to reach Brasov in daylight, especially as the road was hilly.

I was also in a bad mood, maybe it was the rain, my danaged wheel, my now continually skipping gears or because I had taken longer than planned in Romania and had spent a lot of money last night. I shouted at Tuborg as the chain slipped over and again.

I turned my aggression to cycling and raced along. I normally keep a little in reserve, but not today, this was flat out. I had stripped down to shorts and T-shirt despite the rain, I pedalled hard to keep warm. A van driver offered me a lift, I explained I must cycle every km to Cape Town, I dont think he understood. I carried on.

As I neared Brasov I was running on empty, paying the price for my early pace. Each km hurt more than the last, the confusing signs gave me false encouragement, intermittently indicating one distance to town, then a longer distance.

I had been assured there were many camp sites in Brasov, but found none in the centre. I came incredibly close to going to a youth hostel, but found some inner strength and cycled back out of town, up a hill to the camp site. On the way I had my first McDonalds of the trip. It was incredibly expensive, I spent two days living money on a Big Mac meal!

I reached the site exhausted and slept very well.

English

Thursday June 11, 2009

After coffee and breakfast I left the two Stefans. I cycled on towards Sighisoara, but noticed my wheel was not straight. I wobbled on but the problem got worse. A spoke had broken and all the other spokes were loose.

I tightened them up, but may have made it worse as another spoke broke. I struggled into town, where another one went. After asking both a cyclist and a policeman I discovered that there was no bike shop in town. However the policeman took me to someones house.

The handy man sorted my wheel using all of my 5 spare spokes. I paid him 12 lei, about 2.70, a bargain! I intend to get a new wheel in Brasov.

I camped in the town where I met Peter and Jack from England. They had driven here in a Suzuki Vitara, respect! We went out for piza and beer, this cost 40 Lei, the most extravagent night of the trip.  



My first couch surf

Wednesday June 10, 2009

I cycled into Turgu Mures, checked my e-mails and found that my request to couch surf had been met. I met Stefan, his housemate, also Stefan, and his girlfriend. Stefan was a teacher/lecturer on his summer holidays. They were all incredibly relaxed, kind people.

In the evening we all drove to Sighisoara to see the old castle and buildings. I had a fantastic day and learnt a lot about Romanian culture. Stefans grandparents have a farm supplying him with all kinds of food and home made alcohol, which is drank with every meal to help with digestion!

Hunting down a bike shop

Tuesday June 9, 2009 

I got up early and was given coffee by the kind man. I managed to cycle into Cluj Napoca on my broken tyre, but finding a bike shop proved difficult.

I started by asking people, but they did not know, or did not understand. then I tried walking around hoping to bump into a bike shop, but with no luck. Eventually I asked someone who was able to help me, they wrote down the address and gave me directions.

The shop was a back street garage where bikes were repaired. I was shown a selection of second hand tyres, none of which fitted properly. The mechanic gave me directions to another bike shop..

Finally I got the tyre replaced, the process had taken about 3 hours. I asked if they could look at my gears, but the mechanic was busy. I used the library then pedalled up a long hill out of town.

I reached the next town around 7 and was ready to stop. I asked an old man for permission to camp in a field, he just shock his head. I cycled on through a string of towns with few fields in-between. I asked for permission again, but was clutching at straws as it was more of a garden than a field.

I continued on and asked permission at a homestead, luckily they let me camp in their cherry tree orchard. The lady had lived in Bristol, it was great to speak English with her. She was very kind and cooked me dinner!  

My get away

Monday June 8, 2009

When the morning light came I felt safer and went to sleep. I was awoken by the crazy man as he gave me breakfast.

The old man asked me to help feed the animals. I just wanted to leave, but I said OK. This turned into a mamouth exercise, we walked the donkeys, sheep, goats etc down the road, then down a track. Every hundred metres or so an adventurous donkey would stray off into a field and eat the crops, the old man would chase after it, and in the pursuing chaos the other animals would take their chance to break free also.

You can imagine that a 2 km walk takes quite a while. I was no help at all, and just wanted to get away. We reached a field where the animals could graze. Whilst the animals ate we filled a bucket with berries. Eventually we headed back, after I started moaning a bit. It was almost lunch time when we were done. the old man offered me lunch, but I took the opportunity to leave while I could, backing my bike towards the gate, whilst he talked at me. He gave me some berries in a jar. I was free at last, he offered to show me how to get back to the main road, but I decided to take my chances on my own.

After an hour or town of hot riding I finally reached the town I was hoping to arrive at 2 days ago. At least I was rested and raring to go. I made about 100 km, a good effort after a late start, especially as I encountered several hills.

I sought permission to camp in the last house of a village. I was happy to rest, undisturbed. i noticed a split in the rear tyre, I will try and ride on to town tomorrow and get it replaced.

Sunday June 7, 2009

I woke early to the call of "hello" from someone peering through the slot in the car wash door. I packed up and went to the petrol station for a coffee. Later John came round, then he and I went to Constanople's house. I took a bath, then I was given lots of food!

I left around 11.30, with a new route planned. I had been advised to avoid the small roads, as they are of poor quality and go through forests. I was also warned about gypsies who may steal from me, perhaps they lived in the forests?

It was very hot, and my body was still adjusting. At least its a change from the rain! I stopped to take a drink of water when a man on a bicycle approached me. He spoke almost no english. He showed me his Gideons international card and said "God bless you", then he offered to make me food and let me sleep in his house. It was around mid-day, a little early to stop, but I could use a break, so I followed him, he seemed like a good chap.

First I followed him to a couple of shops to buy food, then 6 km's down a small road twards the forests. I tried to refuse his offer when i realised he lived so far away, but then he gave me some bread as I went to leave, and I thought that as he was so generous it would be worth following him after all.

We arrived at a sheep farm with a giant man inside a tiny building. There was only 1 room and 3 beds, I decided there was no way I was going to sleep inside the same room as the giant, who looked like he had the mental capabilities of a child, a bit like a character from Mad Max. I decided to leave, and as I did the old man followed me out and said to follow him to his house. I gave the old man the benefit of the doubt, perhaps the giant was just a wierd friend of his.

We eventually reached his house, which shared a garden with that of an adjacent house occupied by an elderly woman. There were many animals, including sheep, goats, donkeys and chickens. I ate a meal, then the man brought out another chair and pointed me to sit on it, then he just started cutting my hair off, then my beard. Later a boy came round for a hair cut, I think it was the old mans job.

The old man later rummaged through my bags looking for my bible, then took enormous interest in my passport and wanted to take it with him to show someone. I said "no", then I followed him to the shop. we got ice cream. I met some other locals who said the old man was crazy, but not dangerous. Now it all made sense, the old lady had indicated he was crazy too.

I followed him back and went to bed in a wrecked car in his garden. I was awake most of the night fearing that he, or even worse the giant, may come and pay be a visit in the night. Then in the middle of the night the dog chained to the car started to bark a lot, I was half awake and half asleep, ignoring the dog. The I saw someone approaching the car. I screamed.

It was the old man. I hoped he had just come to sort the dog out, but he stayed ot talk to me. He was asking if I wanted the toilet, I said no and he eventually went away. It was very wierd, but I survived!

Car wash

Saturday June 6, 2009

 I set my alarm for 7, but was awoken at 6.13 by the farmer who brought me coffee. I was quickly packed and on my way. At the Romanian border I had to show my passport for the first time, I also had to fill in a swine flu decleration.

I cycled into Carei, then Tasnad, which being on a hill I amagine was once a hill fort. I set off down a small road towards Simlei SilVaniei, but was told by a minibus driver to turn around as there was a problem ahead. not knowing wha the problem was I decided to follow his advice and embarked on a major detour via Marghita. I estimated this would add about 40 km's.

Later I met a man who asked where I was heading, then he suggested I turn around and head back to Tasnad and down the main highway. I could not bear to return to the town I had left about 3 hours ago, so decided to plough on (in the wrong direction). Anyway I didn't want to use the busy E81 road.

As the sun set I asked to camp at a farm, I was refused permission, but I was glad as it was a pig farm, and I didn't fancy camping there. They sugested I found a hotel in the next town. i cycled through Marghita, stopping at a petrol station/bar with a field behind it. When I asked permission to camp in the field the man initially suggested I find a hotel. I explained, as best i could, that I was cycling to Cape Town and had very little money. His friend came along, who spoke excellent English. I was allowed to camp, and they took me into the bar, fed me, let me use their laptop and drank beer with me. it was an awesome evening.

I was told the field may be dangerous and they showed me a car wash next door. They said it may have rats, but it was now gone midnight and I was happy to just fall asleep.

Hungary

Friday June 5, 2009

I lied in, not leaving till 10.30. I crossed the border, stopping at Tesco's, the tourist information centre and a book store to buy a map of Romania. I have decided to plan a route further in advance than the next day or two, in a hope to utilise couchsurfing, so I can have a conversation with someone in english!

I had a good afternoons cycling and camped in a farmers hanger alongside his tractor.  



Meat sandwiches

Thursday June 4, 2009

I left the out-house with a full belly of meat sandwiches and more in the form of a packed lunch. The old man told me that Andy Warhole once stayed in the house as a child. Warhole, now Mounfield, it is a truly special building! I cycled on, the morning rain cleared to reveal a bright afternoon. I had Chesney Hawkes the one and only running through my head as I tackled some tough climbes, as I listened to the lyrics I felt confident there was no one else I would rather be. After reading of other peoples travels I was finally on an adventure of my own.

In the afternoon I caught up with a JCB, I draughted it for a while before making my move and surging past. I was desperate to now stay in front, and was relieved to find there were no large hills before reaching the next town.

I had a camp site map and decided to stop before the border. the site was really for cabins, so they let me camp for free. Then as I was putting the tent up, a man tried to convince me to upgrade to a cabin. I stuck to my guns, he backed down and let me camp in the corner of a field.

Slovakia

Wednesday June 3, 2009

I was invited inside for a breakfast of eggs and bread, I smiled at the kind people, but did not say anything other than thankyou. I was waved goodbye as I set off, I think they were very curious as to what I was doing cycling through their country.

I made excellent progress, and managed to avoid the worst of the rain by sheltering at a bus stop. In the afternoon the rain cleared up and I set off to cross the border into slovakia. I decided to avoid the main crossing on the busy road and take a smaller road through a national park. I checked with a boy who said that it was possible to cross the border this way, but as the road turned into a muddy track I began to doubt this.

I was cyling through forests and saw no one until I met a man painting a solitary church. He reassured me that if I carried on I would reach the border, and sure enough about 40 minutes later I had reached Slovakia. I pedaled on into town, but there was no ATM. I cycled on into Medzilaborce, a town on my Polish map, but there were no shops and no ATM. I asked a lady for directions to the ATM, as the population must get their money somehow, but she said to carry on to the next town. I did, and found that the next town was also Medzilaborce. Here there was an ATM and even a Tescos.

I bought a map at a garage and carried on. I asked to camp at a farm house but was refused. I was a little dejected, but tried to keep spirits high. I cycled on, there were many fields of long grass, which i am sure i could have camped on, but I preffered to ask permission, as that way I feel more secure. After climbing a long hill and descending the other side I reached another village as it began to get dark. I asked to camp on a field behind the first house.

I was directed to sleep in their out house. They made me food and coffee and put a heater on. The lady practiced her English on me. I was extremely relieved to have found a place to stop. Poland had been so friendly and hospitable, and perhaps i had began to take this kind of extreme kindness for granted. Well I can only take each day as it comes, and I had survived another one.

Tuesday June 2, 2009

Edward, the forest man, woke me up early, before 7 am. I eat some more noodles then packed up. As I dismantled my tent the family left for work / school, Edward was dressed in camoflauge green. I cycled along quiet country roads, then stopped at a picnic area and lay on a bench contempleting my new status as a solo cyclist.

Around mid-day I stopped to use the internet, then pedalled on into the afternoon rain. I tried to avoid the heaviest rain, sheltering in bus stops, but eventually I was completly soaked through to the point that I couln't get any wetter.

I asked permission to camp at a farm, they agreed. Then I asked for water, which they gave me, and then invited me inside for tea and meat sandwiches. I grinned broadly as I was given food. Communication was difficult, I showed them my photos, but they were asking where I was from, it took about 30 minutes to establish that I was British. I said thanks and returned to my tent. I couldn't be bothered to turn on my petrol stove to cook more, so just went to sleep.

Forest man

Monday June 1, 2009

I had set my alarm for 8, but heard the family were up and about at around 6,30 so I got up and joined them for a breakfast of soup and bread with meat. It was very nice. The mother then made me a packed lunch! Wow! The father motioned that I could keep the socks he had lent me. They were so kind. By 7.15 I was packed and set off, as the family waved me goodbye.

Daniela and I normally set off around 11.30, having chatted for hours and packed extremely slowly, so I figured I had at least 3 hours in hand. I decided to pedal on and wait for Daniela at the next library. The Polish for library is "biblioteka", all Daniela has to do is say the word and people give directions. It was not so simple for me, my accent was so bad that nobody could understand me. I found some english speakers, but they didn't know where the library was. So I left Zamosc, pedalling onwards in search of a library. No reply from the texts I sent Daniela, I guessed she was still asleep.

I found a library in Jozefow. A technician was reloading windows onto the 2 computers, and as he messed with the second computer, the first, which I was using, kept losing its connection. It was very slow work. Daniela responded at 3.30, she had only cycled 15 km's to Zamosc and was still about 35 km behind. However it was raining and she had decided to wait in Zamosc for it to stop (all day). So it would be another night alone for me.

I cycled on, enjoying the freedom of being able to go at my own pace and stop when I wanted. As the sun sank lower I asked permission to camp at a house surrounded by fields. The man said I could camp on his lawn. Then he rang his daughter to translate for us. I was asked by his daughter if I would like food, and I said I had noodles, but I think this was lost in translation, and they cooked noodles for me!!

I was invited for tea and a barbeque in their garden. It was fantastic. He was a "forest man", hunting animals for a living. The sausages were from animals he had caught. He was a legend, it was a shame I could only communicate with him via his daughter on the phone. Then we drank beer and vodka and laughted and tried to talk. He was a very jolly fellow, and always joked about his belly in the photos. He invited me inside to sleep, which I accepted. He had a special room with antlers, furs and alike.

I went to bed happy. Daniela sent a text saying the weather forecast was bad for another 2 days and she would go home to Czech early, she was only planning to stay till Slovakia (in 2-3 days) so it made sense. I was now alone, surviving and thriving!

Sunday - Rain Again

We were given eggs and tea for breakfast, which went down very nicely.  Polish people are so friendly.  We headed off into the rain for another soaking.  After 20 km's I saw some other bikes outside a petrol station/ bar.  We went to investiage.  2 Polish cyclists were hiding from the stormy weather.  We joined them inside, ordering a pizza for about 1 pound.  The other cyclists braved the wet and carried on.

I drank several cups of tea, hoping to sit out the storm, but it was not getting better.  A local was getting drunk and offered Daniela and I Vodka.  I refused, but after Daniela drank hers I caved in and drank mine too.  He gave us some more drinks then I bought a round of beers.

Six hours later....  Suddenly it was time to leave and put the tent up before it got dark.  We had both been bought a lot of drinks, but I had actually drank mine, where as Daniela left a line of untouched beers behind!  We pushed our bikes along, hoping to find a field, however they all contained crops.  We couldn't find anywhere appropriate so we carried on, at least the rain had stopped now.

I got ahead of Daniela, and waited.  As she caught up, she turned down a side road, I considered there to be little hope, so waited at the junction.  She never returned!

After 5 minutes I followed down the road, but could not see her in any gardens, maybe she was in someone's back garden?  I went back to where I had seen her last and waited.  I tried to ring her over and over, but her phone was off.  After a while I was beginning to think I would not find her tonight.  I was drunk and it was getting dark.  I decided to wait till 8 pm, then till 20 past, but still no sign of her, and no answer on the phone.  As it drew dark I made off to find a field.  I knocked on the door of a big house, this was my first time camping in a foreign country alone.  I only knew the word for tent, Namiot.  This worked, I was given permission to camp.  Hooray!

As I set the tent up, the son came to say I could sleep inside.  I was given dry socks, a full meal, including desert, and a shower.  I had wondered if all the genorosity we had recieved before was due to Daniela being a girl, but it seems not.  I guess I look pathetic and hopeless enough on my own!

I showed them my pictures on their laptop.  I told them Daniela and I had gone our seperate ways today, as she made off for her Czech homeland, which I though sounded better than "I got drunk and lost her".  I dreaded seing the last few photos, taken today in the bar, I thought my game was up, as I showed them a close up of a bottle of beer, but the moment passed and went to bed early, wondering what Daniela was up to.

Rain
Saturday May 30, 2009

We set the alarm for 6 am, hoping to put a big day in. When the alarm went off it was still raining and I was happy to return to slumberland. When we got up we were offered coffee and breakfast. Meat and tomatoes on bread. It was a special day today, I gather that the children were being comitted to the Church.

Another family had arrived for the celebration. I spoke in English for 15 minutes to an 11 year old girl, I was amazed by her English, and her courage to approach a foreign man with a dodgy beard. After taking some photos of their puppy Husky dog we left.

I rang my Dad using some promotional credit, I said that the weather was very good. 15 minutes later the heavens opened. My feet were soaked and my taped up saddle was chaffing against the inside of my leg. Despite this we made excelent progress. Due to the rain we were not interested in stopping to look around, we just cycled. The downside was that I forgot to eat and was surviving on snickers bars untill we finally reached a suermarket in Chelm.

Shortly after Chelm we stopped at a farm. We camped on their lawn and eat stew and cakes. Daniela and the father chatted and I occasionally asked quesions about his farm animals. The father said his son could earn as much in 2 months in the UK as in a whole year in Poland! I felt very fortunate, but am not sure if this is accurate?

Ever onwards

The friendly couple made us breakfast, then the man took us to arrange for a ferry crossing. Then we went to the village shop, where I bought a do-nut, which the nice man insisted on paying for! He also paid for Daniela's shopping, he was so very kind.

We walked up to the border, there is no crossing here, just a barbed wire fence and a manicin on patrol. Around mid-day we took the ferry, again the man paid, his kindness was too much. It emerged that the couple lived in Warsaw and were just on holiday, renting the house here. They invited us to visit them in the capital. We decided that Warsaw was too much of a detour, and not to accept their kind offer.

In the evening we asked for water at a farm, the people were very friendly so we asked if we could pitch our tent their too. There were many people around the farm, we spoke to some people who had worked in London, but had been made redundent, they didn't have fond memories of the UK. I was beginning to regret being British, but only for a short while, as the redundent guys left, and Daniela was asked by the grandfather if I was German. She said "no", and he was relieved.

We were kindly offered tea and dumplings filled with cheese. Delicious.

Mis-navigation
Thursday May 28, 2009

We made breakfast, said goodbye, and left as the librarian went back to work. We stopped for some late lunch at a bus stop in a small village. Daniela approached some ladies, standing in their garden, to ask for water. She was invited inside and didn't return for about 20 minutes. I was a little envious as I assumed she was being offered tea and biscuits.

Daniela returned with a carton of eggs and said that the people were crazy! As we packed up to move on the ladies invited us into their garden again. There was an elderly lady and her middle aged daughter, who was very aggressive. The daughter showed us some rabbits, then a chicken escaped from the shed. She chased it round and round the garden, but could not get it to go back in. I then chased it and it went straight into the shed, beginners luck I guess.

The ladies offered us tea. We spoke, Daniela translating. Like many people they assumed Daniela and I were married, engaged or on honeymoon. For any confused readers I would like to clarify that Daniela and I are just friends. After about 10 minutes we convinced them that we were not together, at which point the elderly lady tried to convince Daniela to marry her gransdson.

The elderly lady insisted with camp in her garden, it was a little early to stop and I wasn't keen, but she kept nagging and Daniela caved in and agreed. The older lady went inside, then the daughter went on a rant about her leg and the doctor. Daniela told me to listen out for a swear word, which I heard the lady use very frequently. She went on and on. I gave Daniela a look and said something, then the lady asked if I was talking about her, Daniela told her I was complementing the coffee. We made our excuses and left quickly.

We cycled on, navigating small roads. We went slightly wrong, but were still on course to cross a river at Niemirow. However I had made some navigation assumptions, one of which was that there would be a bridge. We asked locals for directions, who scratched their heads and pointed left the right and said over the river. We tried to follow their directions, but the road turned into a track. As we passed a house a nice couple came out to tell us that we had just passed the last house in Poland, and we were 100 metres from the Belarusian border.

We ended up camping on their lawn. They made us tea, and we cooked inside. They offerus us some wine. They spoke excellent English. We spoke of the war. The man was 80 years old and had lived an exciting life, travelling the world as a hydration engineer. His father was buried in Liverpool, having died in the war. We slept well that night, and the man said he would arrange for us to take a ferry accross the river the next day.