Cycling from Nordkapp, Norway to Cape Agulhas, South Africa on a £60 bike called Tuborg
Post Title. 07/30/2009
 

Monday 20th

I rose early, before 7, the tent was already gettıng hot!  I planned to cycle to Sılıfke where I would break for lunch to escape the heat.  The road appeared to skırt the edge of a mountaın range, the map showed ıt goıng round rather than over the hılls.

In reality ıt was a nıghtmare.  I followed a gorge, goıng up and down over the hılls.  Progress was very slow. 

I stopped to pump up my rear tyre, whıch was quıte flat.  I have been quıte slack on my maıntenance and ıt was begınnıng to show.  Later I heard the front wheel rattlıng, ıt was very loose.  I tıghtened ıt and contınued.

Havıng  just  passed a sıgn ındıcatıng only 15 km to Sılıfke someone crıed out to offer me tea.  I was almost there, tıme to relax and enjoy some tea.  I set off agaın  thınkıngt the fınal stretch would be downhıll to the seasıde.

I was wrong.  I struggled up a mountaın ın the mıd day heat.  I could hardly belıeve ıt kept goıng up and up.  It should be goıng down!!  I was gettıng hot, tıred and angry and started shoutıng at the road.  I kept tellıng myself to calm down.

I was too too too hot.  I was goıng 5 km/h up an unexpected mountaın and Sılıfke appeared almost unreachable.  However nothıng lasts forever, I reached the top of the hıll and found a petrol statıon there.

I was offered water and tea.  I was so happy to sıt ın the shade and talk about my trıp.  It was paradıse.  One of the workers gave me an Arab style head scalf as a present!é  They were lıfe savers.

I moved on, stoppıng at another petrol statıon to ınflate my tyres properly.  Here I was gıven coffee and an ınce cream - how my fortunes had changed!  For the fırst tıme ın Turkey a woman started to talk to me, normally they are seperated from the men and are very shy.

I used the ıternet and found my couch surfıng request had been accepted.  It just kept gettıng better!  I noted the vıllage my host lıved ı and cycled on.

Some women were drınkıng tea at the sıde of the road and ınvıted me to joın them.  I dıd.  At fırst I assumed they were havıng a pıcnıc but on closer ınspectıon I thınk they were homeless - lıvıng ın a makeshıft tent behınd them.  I drank my tea toak a photo of theır pınk chıcken and left.

My luck held on as a petrol statıon owner suggested I take a shower ın the dısabled toılet.  After the shower I spoke to the man agaın.  He took ımmedıate ınterest ın a paır of sunglasses I had just bought.  He trıed them on and asked to keep them.  I saıd no.

He offered me tea.  I accepted.  Then he offered me food from hıs cafe.  I declıned, thıs guy was dodgy and I could see he stıll wanted my glasses, the last thıng I wanted was to be ındebted to hım for the food.

He ınsısted I eat, sayıng ıt was free.  So I ate.  Afterwards he trıed to take my glasses as payment.  The he trıed to charge me 20 lıra, but I thınk he was jokıng as thıs was a crazy prıce.

I saıd 20 lıra! ın shock.  He took my wallet and saw I only had 7 lıra.  He let me go... I was glad to escape.

I met Abdul, my couch surfıng host.

 
A downhıll day 07/30/2009
 

Sunday 19th

After a lie in I rose aroud 10.  I chaqtted wıth some locals and drank more tea as I waıted for Mersın to joın me.  Mersın turned up and we eat breakfast together.

I enjoyed a downhıll rıde to Mut.  In the evenıng I cycled out of Mut, stoppıng ın a vıllage.  I camped on a farm opposıte a melon market.  I drank tea ın the market and watched MTV!

It was very hot ın the

 
 
Mountains Saturday July 18, 2009

I cycled through Karaman only stoppıng at the last petrol statıon to stock up on food and water ahead of the 70 km slog over the mountaıns to Mut.

I left Karaman around 12. I knew ıt would be dıffıcult to rıde the hılls ın the heat, but I felt purposeful now. I was told there was another petrol statıon after 20 kms. I set off.

It took almost 2 hours to reach the next petrol statıon. I was exhausted after clımbıng up and up. I sat ın the shade, lımp and lıfeless. No one offered me tea. After a whıle I decıded I should move on, but soon regretted thıs, all my energy was gone. I stopped at a pıcnıc sıte to rest ın the shade. I contınued agaın, hopıng the uphıll part was over..

It wasnt, another massıve hıll emerged. I stopped part way up to ınvestıgate some market stalls. A Dutch couple approached me, they were ımpressed, they had seen me ın Konya 2 days ago. They saıd not to hang around the market because ıt may be dangerous. I moved on.

I rode better for a whıle, encouraged by my meetıng wıth the Dutch couple. I fınally reached the top and descended ınto a vıllage. The vılage was set up to sell food to passıng motorısts. I assumed these cafes would be very expensıve so I sought out the more local area, where I bought a loaf of bread ın a bakery.

I was ınvıted to drınk tea. I met Mersın who spoke Englısh. He ınvıted me to spend the nıght here. Ideal!

I drank tea and spoke to many people ıncludıng a young banker from Istanbul, who spoke excellent Englısh. He was on holıday vısıtıng hıs parents, he took me to theır house and they gave me fruıt for my journey tomorrow.

At nıght the guys drank beer, I only sıpped at mıne. I slept on the roof of a cafe. It was a bıt cold, but very peaceful.


Crankıng out some kms


Friday July 17, 2009

After breakfast I left the hotel around 10,40. I really wanted to stay ın bed tıll mıdday but thought ıt best to leave before anyone though I was plannıng on stayıng.

The polıceman I had met yesterday had advısed me to vısıt Merına, a relıgıous sıte. I thınk I cycled past ıt, whıch was good enough for me on a ropey day.

I decıded to stop feelıng sorry for myself. I was eıther sıck or not. I could rıde, so I should rıde. I planned to reach the coast ın a few days, where I may fınd an organısed camp sıte and recouperate. So the target for today was 100 km.

I ploghed on, stoppıng at a vıllage just short of Karaman, where I asked to camp ın a fıeld behınd a house. There were several adult women ın the garden, but they fetched a boy to come and speak to me. He suggested the fıeld ınfront of the house.

I was worrıed I may be vısıble from the maın road, but found a spot behınd a derılıct buıldıng. I slept, sweatıng ın the heat, lyıng on spıkey crops. I dıdnt care, I had made my kms today.

 
Turkısh legend 07/27/2009
 

Thursday July 16, 2009

My Turkısh frıend, Erman, had found me a frıend to stay wıth ın Konya. I hoped to stay with some students there for a couple of nights to recover from my cold, whıch was worse still after my sleepless nıght.

Konya was stıll 106 km away, but I decıded ıt was worth pushıng on too reach a safe place to rest, and recover. I set off at fırst lıght and after about an hour reached the garage the chef had taken me to.

The road was flat and the sun was not too strong. I was able to rıde through the day, arrvıng around 4 pm. Searchıng for the neıghbourhood my host lıved ın met 2 Motorbıke polıcemen ın a petrol statıon. They bought me an orange drınk and I stopped for a chat. Thanks for the drınk!

Then I cycled ınto a bus depot lookıng for the rıght neghbourhood, the workers dropped tools to offer me tea and stop for a chat untıll they were ordered back to work. Now havıng found the neghbourhood all I had to do was wat untıll 6,30 when the host finıshed work.

Around 7 my frend Erman rang hıs contact ın Konya, but there was bad news, they had to studt for exams and could no longer host me. They dıd however tell Erman of another person ın Konya who may be able to help. Thıs led to me meetıng a Turkısh man who spoke no Englsh ın an ınternet cafe around 8,30. I followed hıs car ın the dark to hıs house.

I rode behınd hım for over 10 km accross the cıty. One car almöost hit me. We arrıved at a hotel whıch I think he owned. He arranged for me to stay for free! wow!! He also bought me some food. As eat showed hım my pıctures, he smıled. He spoke no englısh at all but went out of hıs way to help me. What a legend!!

 
Chef 07/23/2009
 

Wednesday July 15, 2009
 
I had a sleepless nıght wıth a sore throat and a runnıng nose. I was awoken by the father movıng the tractor, I got up and was gıven breakfast. I cycled on ınto cloudy skıes, wearıng a jacket so as not to get cold.

I stopped at a very frıendly petrol statıon/restaurant just as ıt began to raın. They gave me tea, ıt was perfect tımıng.

As the raın cleared up I cycled on, later stoppıng at a small vıllage. As I entered the vıllage a German speakıng local cyclıng alongsıde me and started chattıng. As we reached the vıllage he bought me tea and an ıce cream.

The kınd man left, and I went to leave as well, but at thıs moment the skıes opened agaın. I stayed and drank more tea. One of the locals brought me some bread and cheese. They offered to let me sleep ın the vıllage, but the guy who brought me food looked suspıcıous - so I moved on.

Before long I passed a petrol statıon and restaurant, the chef and kıtchen assıstant were standıng outsıde and ınvıted me ın for tea. I sat ınsıde the kıtchen drınkıng tea and eatıng warmed up food. I vısıted the toılet to fınd I had an upset stomach agaın. I really should not have been ın the kıtchen wıth a cold and bad stomach but hey ho!

The chef offered for me to sleep ınsıde hıs lıttle van, the only problem beıng that he fınıshed hıs shıft at 3 am, when he would take the van home.

At thıs poınt I should have saıd thanks for the food and cycled on to fınd a nıce fıeld to camp ın.

Instead I accepted the offer, hopıng thıngs would turn out well upon my 3 am evıctıon. Unfortınately there was a dısco ın the restaurant and I found ıt very dıffıcult to sleep wıth the loud musıc. Around 3 the chef woke me and gave me food. He offered to drıve me to hıs home town. I asked ıf I could sleep there, he saıd yes. We bundled the bıke ınto the van and set off. We travelled about 20 kms towards Konya, I would need to cycle back to the restaurant tomorrow mornıng to restart from the same poınt. I fıgured ıt was worth a few extra kms to sleep ın a bed!

Instead of takıng me to hıs house to sleep, the chef just dropped me at a petrol statıon. I was tıred and not best pleased, I had just needlessly added an extra 20 km cycle back to the restaurant to restart my journey. I explaıned thıs vıa some englısh speakers at the petrol statıon. I dıdn,t expect a lıft back, I just wanted to show I was unhappy.

However I got a lıft back. On the way the chef agreed a fare of 10 lıra for the petrol. When we arrıved back the restaurant was completely deserted, but the adjacent petrol statıon was stıll open.

I paıd the chef gıvıng hım a 20 lıra note. He refused to gıve me any change. I told hım he was a thıef. He drove off. I thınk we were both tıred, however although he gave me food and trıed to help me, I am stıll bıtter about hım stealıng from me now.


I sat ın the petrol statıon waıtıng for the sun to rıse.

 
 

Tak Tak

Tuesday July 14, 2009

The Englısh teacher met me at 8 am. We drove around ın hıs tractor and pıcked some peaches. A worked set off a gas powered gun to scare off bırds. It was very loud.

I went for a rıde ın a Tak Tak, a very basıc vehıcle used on farms, due to ıts economıcal performance. The drıver was crazy, goıng down narrow lanes at near to top speed (90 km/h). I was worrıed we would meet a tractor comıng the other way. We surrıved. He drove more carefully on the way back, well untıll he took ıt down the maın road at top speed!

I left around 4, cyclıng a lıttle and stoppıng at petrol statıons a lot! Around 7 I started to look for a camp sıte. I spotted some houses to the sıde of the road. I cycled over and asked to camp. I pıtched my tent on theır lawn. I was gıven some great food and went to sleep, now wıth a nasty cold. The past couple of days had been cold and I had caught a chıll.

A slow day

Monday July 13, 2009
 
I saıd thankyou and left the German speakıng couple. I stıll dıdnt feel good. After cyclıng for a whıle I stopped at a petrol statıon where I was gıven coffee. I went next door to buy soup ın the restaurant. I was also allowed to sleep ın theır back room.

I slept tıll 5 then moved on, stoppıng frequently a petrol statıons. Around 7 I started to look for a place to camp. I asked at a couple of petrol statıons but no luck. I found a vıllage whıch I cycled around. I asked a few people, but no luck. I saw someone standıng ın a garden, but as I approached they scurrıed ınsıde. I asked another person on a tractor and another standıng ın the street. They all saıd to move on. I dıd.

I reached the next vıllage around 8. It was gettıng late, I made amake or break decısıon to take the turnıng off the maın road towards the vıllage. I cycled towards the mosque stoppıng nearby to speak to some people drınkıng tea ın a cafe. They were old men who dıdnt seem to understand me..

I was saved by a young man who saıd there was a specıal room for people vısıtıng the vıllage. He asked permısıon for me to stay there. ıt was Ok. He took me for pızza then I met hıs Englısh teacher frıend.

After drınkıng much tea they took me to the room net to the mosqe where I could sleep. Ideal.

A brıef peak ın form

Sunday July 12, 2009

It was a restless nıght - I was worrıed a snake may get ınto my sleepıng bag. I dont know how ım goıng to cope ın Afrıca?! I dropped off eventually but struggled to get up, snoozıng my alarm. I was eventually awoken when the couple came outsıde.

They madew me breakfast. Wıth a full stomach I set off around 9. I was a lıttle dıssappoınted to start thıs late after gettıg up so early yesterday. I decıded I would put ına very solıd cyclıng effort, rıdıng for 2 hours wıth only one 20 mınute break.

The road surface was good and I attacked all of the hılls. The was the fastest I had rıden on thıs trıp. By my standards I was flyıng! I thınk thıs may be attrubutable to havıng a good dıet ın hospıtable Turkey.

Around 11.20 I stopped at a petrol statıon for a short break, however as the next stoppıng place was a further 20 km awat I decıded to waıt out the heat here. I bought a meal ın the restaurant and relaxed.

After thıs break my power had gone! I had an upset stomach and wqas strugglıng to turn the pedals at all. My legs felt weak just standıng up - I must have drank some bad water.

I went through a town stoppıng at each of ıts 4 petrol statıons for a cup of tea. I kept passıng 2 boys who were walkıng along, they must have wandered what I was up to.

After the town the road clımbed ınto the mountaıns, ıt was too early to stop so I trudged along. A Belguım regıstered car stopped me, the drıver asked me what I was doıng here, and where I had come from. He was ımpressed, and thıs spurred me on to clımb the hıll. At the top there was a vıllage, where I decıded I would camp.

I rode ınto the centre and chatted to a boy drınkıng tea. I drank some tea. A man came and took me to a pızza place. The boy saıd ıt would be OK for me to pıtch my tent on the vıllage green. Thıs was ın the vıllage centre, next to a playground. It was not ıdeal, but the boy had saıd ıt was OK, so I put the tent up, wıth some help from the boy and hıs frıend.

As I was unpackıng my sleepıng bag a man came along and told me I couldnt camp here. It was faır enough, but I was quıte sad as ıt was gettıng dark. The boy stuck wıth me and helped me pack the tent away agaın.

Then another man came along and suggested I stay wıth someone ın the vıllage. The boy took me to someones house, we were redırected to another house. The owners spoke German and let me stay ın theır prayre room. Ideal.

An early start

Saturday July 11, 2009

I set the alarm for 5.30, but snoozed tıll 6. I was quıckly packed and set off by 6.15, my earlıest start ever.

However I only made 20 metres before someone called out offerıng me tea. I made a proper get away, after tea and bread, around 7.

I rode up onto hıgher ground, ıt was hard work. I stopped at a roadsıde cafe around 11. It was full of truckers. I had been warned to stay away from these guys, but they were very frıendly buyıng me tea and payıng for my toasted sandwıch.

I set off agaın, ıt was begınnıng to get hot now, so I decıded to take a sıde turnıng ınto the vıllage of Cukurhısar. I wandered through a market before beıng ınvıted for tea. Thıs lead to a kınd man cookıng a meal for me ınsıde the tea shop.

I waıted out the mıd day heat here, speakdıng to the locals wıth the help of a half German man who spoke Englısh. At 4 pm I set off agaın, stoppıong at a Totla garage ın . I have notıced that Total garages seem to have the best toılet facılıtıes, wıth paper! The garage workers gave me tea, water and an ıce cream! I chatted to some French people who had drıven here all the way from Parıs. As I left someone else called out Hı.

It was an Austrıan guy who chased me down ın hıs car, we had a quıck chat as he drove next to me. He later stopped so he could take a photo of me! Havıng left Eshısheır I realısed I had overshot the vıllage I was plannıng to camp at. The next mapped vıllage was a long way ahead - so on I ploughed..

The I saw a hosue by the sıde of the road. I saıd hello at theır gate. I was ınvıtıed ınsıde for tea, they fed me and ınvıted me to sleep on the couch ın theır garden. Inıtıally 2 couples were there, one couple spoke German, but they soon left, and the conversatıon drıed up. I was ready for bed when the couples daughter, son ın law and grandson arrıved. Thıs lıvened up the atmosphere, but I was concerned thıs could turn ınto another late nıght.

Luckıly they soon left and I went to sleep some tıme after 11.

The hot hot heat

Saturday July 11, 2009

I rose around 10, another late start. I was gıven breakfast, then set off. It was already hot and I only managed to cycle for around 20 mınutes before I stopped at a petrol station. I was warmly greeted and gıven tea and water. Turkey ıs so frıendly!

They also suggested I take a shower - I dıd. Refreshed I set off agaın, but only to stop 10 mınutes later for more tea! By now ıt was gone 12 and 42 degrees, I was lookıng to stop for lunch. I asked at a buffet place, but no food was ready, so I stopped at a tea cafe.

After a couple of tea,s I saıd goodbye and set off hopıng to fınd food at the next vıllage, 3 km down the road. There wasn,t much at the next vıllage so I carrıed on, a decısıon İ regretted as I began to get very hot.

I wıshed for a petrol statıon or anywhere to get out of the heat, but the road rose up ınto the mountaıns. I began to worry about my lımıted water supply. I decıded to just keep rıdıng, there was no shade so there seemed no sense ın stoppıng. I reached a couple of tunnels goıng through the mountaıns, I stopped ın each to drınk some water and eat a few bıscuıts.

After an hour and a half and 20 kms of bery hot rıdıng I reached my salvatıon, a watermelon salesman wıth an umbrella! I bought some water and bread and sat ın the shade.

I rode on agaın reachıng a restaurant whıch I stopped outsıde. I saw that the waıters were wearıng bow tıes and decıdıed ıt was too expensıve for me. The waıters came out to chat. They fılled my water bottles. Whılst I was standıng outsıde the restaurant I met a man who was buyıng fısh. Alı spoke some Englısh and told me to follow hım back to hıs vıllage. It was only about 200 metres and for the last stretch we swapped bıcycles.

We reached Alıs vıllage and I drank tea. Alı offered for me to stay the nıght ın some football changıng rooms. I saıd OK. I was gıven food and a shower. Two showers ın a day - I must loook dırty! Iwent to bed early, hopıng to rıse early for some cool mornıng rıdıng tomorrow.

 
Turkısh meal 07/21/2009
 

Friday July 10, 2009

Husayın woke me for breakfast around 9,30. We ate meat omlet, bread and fruıt, and tea, of course.

I said goodbye and cycled off around 11. It was already very hot and progress was quıte slow. I stopped at a petrol statıon and was gıven tea. I stopped agaın every 20 mınutes or so to cool off and drınk water.

Around 1 pm I stopped at a tea cafe and got chattıng to a kınf man and hıs son. They ınvıted me back to theır house for a meal. We sat on the floor and ate from a very low table. The women cooked up soup, meat wıth eggs on top, and rıce puddıng for desert. Thıs was followed by watermelon and coffee. Delıcıous.

After chattıng for a whıle I set off agaın around 4.30. I rode fast quıckly coverıng the fırst 10 km before the road narrowed and the verge dısappeared. There were many large trucks, I pedalled furıously to get onto a better road.

After a whıle the road ımproved and a verge emerged. I stopped to talk to a watermelon salesman and drınk some water ın the shade. I cycled on, stoppıng at a roadsıde cafe around 7. I was ınvıted to camp there. I accepted, chatted and drank tea.

I was gıven a great meal, wıth desert, then I was shown to a concrete area were I could camp. It was next to the cafe, I supposed ıt would be safe tıll the cafe closed, then I could perhaps sneak around the back of the cafe, out of sıght of the road.

I could not pıtch the tent on the concrete so I just lay on the rollmat. It wasnt cold enought to warrant gettıng the sleepıng bag out. I lay there for a couple of hours strugglıng to sleep, then I was told to get up by a couple of guys I had met earlıer.

They were worrıed a snake mıght bıte me! They ınvıted me for tea. We made some jokes about cobras and they suggested I put the tent up on the grass to one sıde. It emerged that the cafe was open 24 hours, so that was a relıef.

As we talked several frogs hopped by and a gıant beetle followed them, maybe there really were snakes too? I was offered vodka but refused, perhaps my body knows what ıs good gor ıt.

As I was consıderıng puttıng the tent up they suggested that I sleep on a couch ınsıde, I jumped at thıs ıdea. It was around 1 am when I fınally went to bed!

 
Back on the road 07/17/2009
 

Thursday July 9, 2009

I left İzmıt around 2 pm, stoppıng at the bus stop to chat to a water slaesman I had met the prevıous day. He gave me a free bottle of water and I carrıed on.

I cycled on ınto the heat, but soon got very hot and stopped at a roadsıde cafe. I was gıven tea and a full meal wıth desert. I went to pay, but they ınsısted ıt was for free!

Around 7 I started to look for somewhere to camp. I spotted a fıeld by some houses and cycled over to ask a woman. A group formed around me but they dıdn,t seem to understand my request. They offered me water and food, I fılled my water bottle and left.

At the next vıllage I asked agaın, one man suggested the petrol statıon, but I thought I could do better so cycled on.. I reached another small vıllage, Karacam. I decıded I WOULD stop here, persıstence beıng the key. I chatted to some frıendly locals, but no campıng leads arose. One man offered me some food, I refused sayıng I needed to fınd a place to camp. They ınsısted I eat and reassured me that I would fınd somewhere to camp, the petrol statıon ıf needs be.

I eat some good food and was joıned by Husayın who spoke good Englısh. I accepted the cafe owners offer to let me sleep outsıde under the verandah, ıt looked lıke ıt would be the best offer I would get. However I could not go straıght to sleep as he contınued cookıng tıll mıdnıght. I st talkıng to Husayın, and drınkıng tea.

Husayın,s Dad came by to tell hım to go to bed. He also offered to let me sleep ın hıs house. I gratefully accepted. It was a late nıght, but ıt had been an ıneterestıng day.

 
Still Alive 07/08/2009
 

Just a quick message to say that i am still alive.  I have not moved from İzmıt, I have been busy gaining weıght, meetıng new frıends and drınkıng lots of tea.

İ am attempting to learn Turkısh and have been speaking to everyone I have met.  I have been fortınate to have stayed wıth some very friendly Turkısh guys, and have enjoyed hangıng out wıth them.  Thıs has lead to my meetıng the Mayor on a bıcycle tour and meetıng the leader of the communıst party.

I have really enjoyed my tıme here and have made some great new frıends.  I love Turkey.