Cycling from Nordkapp, Norway to Cape Agulhas, South Africa on a £60 bike called Tuborg
Cows 05/18/2009
 

Cows

Sunday May 17, 2009

We were awoken early as someone called at us, as they let cows into the field. I think they wanted us to move. Unfortinately I was naked in my sleeping bag (I don't wear underwear when cycling, and am gradually phasing it out alltogether) and couldn't pop out to greet them. Daniela went outside to appease the woman.

We packed up quickly and left, relieved to be away from the cows, one of which was taking a keen interest in our bikes. We cycled into Turi, the spring capital of Estonia. A flower festival was in town, we entered as the traders were setting up their stalls, and eat breakfast (bread and salami) on the grass.

All manner of goods from flowers, to arts and crafts, to clothing and lawnmowers were being displayed for sale. I purchased a second breakfast for 40 krones, a sausage, potato and vegetables, served with gerkins and bread.

we left the supermarket, bought supplies in the supermarket and rode on towards Parnu, the summer capital of estonia. we followed the cycle route signs, which took us off the main road, before deserting us for a 35 km stretch, including several junctions. we asked an old lady on a bike for directions. She said to turn around and follow the main road, which was the shortest route. i put my neck on the line and suggested that we ignore her advice, we cycled on and asked a man, who told us of a gravel road.

I knew there was a parallel road, having keenly studied the cycling specific map, which i could not afford to buy. we reached a village, with a road to the right. I enquired at a shop. the lady inside welcomed us and we spoke for some time. then she offered us a coffee, i got the impression they didn't get to speak to many tourists around here. i showed her my pictures of norway, and asked if i could take a photo of her, then my batteries died, so to bad!

We headed off down the gravel road, I felt great, having a proper breakfast had given me so much energy. My bike felt like a stripped down racing bike, as I tore along the gravel road, weaving from side to side to find the smoothest path.

daniela was slow, I slowed too for a while, but found it wasier to travel over the gravel with momentum. So I tore on ahead like a bat out of hell, skimming accross the loose surface of the dusty gravel road. I passed a lady in her garden, she smiled and waved, I waved back. I felt so alive. I raced on and at a village I overtook some locals on bikes, I was lance Armstrong winning the Tour de france.

Occasionally I stopped to eat some food, feeding my supercharged engine and waiting for Daniela to catch up. eventually the gravel came to an end and we saw another cycle path marker. I was so glad we hadn''t turned around and taken the main road!

we stopped for lunch at a bus stop. the we re-supplied at a Parnu supermarket, before heading down the coast road to Latvia. We cycled on till around 7.30, when we decided to look for somewhere to stop. i spied some motorhomes and asked their German owners if it was OK to camp. It was, the site was owned by the village, a communal area to camp and picnic.

We pitched out tent and for the first time light a fire, in the ashes of a past one. the Germaanš gave us hot water and tea bags. they were very kind. We boiled more water on the fire and drank lots of tea. I still had a beer left over from my Estonian birthday in Tallin, which I enjoyed whilst admiring the sunset over the beach and sea.

I would like to thank the community minded estonian village for providing such excellent facilities, including a toilet and water, for all to enjoy, in such a beautiful beach side spot. thanks.

Seeing as I have been on the road for a month, I have completed a systems check.

Brakes - rear are good, replacved in Tallin, front are worn but OK.

Seat - torn, as a result of leaning bike against trees with rough bark. Now the padding is beginning to fall out of the tears. I am considering making a duct tape repair.

Panniers - considerable damage sustained, largely in the great pot hole incident of last week. I was following Daniela a little too closely, and at speed. I failed to see the crater until it was too late. It was like the big dipper, first I went down, then I was thrown up the other side. My handle bar bag was thrown clear of the bike, and my left rear pannoier fell off to one side.

I manages to stay on the bike, but before I knew it the handle bar bag had skidded to a stop in front of me. I slammed on the brakes a little too late as my front wheel came to a rest on top of the bag. the plastic structure split, but the locking mechanism was unscathed. the left rear pannier is now down to only 1 of the 3 original working connectors. the first was knocked off when Daniela rear ended me. The second remains on, by threads, but is no longer screwed into the pannier. The crater was in Finland, and since I have used bungee cords to hold the left rear pannier in place.

Pannier rack - broke in finland, replace is still hanging on.

Wheels - fine so far

Petrol stove - Brilliant. It has proved to be a reliable tool. the fuel bottle however let me down when teh screw top lid broke early on, this was my second lid, the original also broke when i tested it in the UK.

As for me - I have lost quite a bit of weight, but am getting fitter. My major ailment is a case of saddle sores, which i fear may persist for teh duration of this trip.

Locked in the library!

Saturday May 16, 2009

We rose late and cycled into Rapsa, Daniela bought new inner tubes. i used the internet in the library. Then we had a problem, Danielaš new lock was jammed shut, and her bike was now a permenant feature of the librarys exterior. eventually we freed the bike with the help of a local and his wire cutter, and we changed the inner tube again.

we cycled on towards Turi and camped in a field just short.